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In an ELLE interview published ahead of the Kiko Kostadinov womenswear show in Paris on October 5, Laura and Deanna Fanning described a spring/summer 2027 collection they said would be cleaner and more graphic than recent seasons. The report also traces how their work blends utility, unusual silhouettes and historical references for a following that includes artists and intellectuals.
Laura and Deanna Fanning, the designers behind Kiko Kostadinov’s womenswear line, said their spring/summer 2027 collection was taking a cleaner, more graphic direction in an interview with ELLE published before the label’s October 5 show at Paris Fashion Week. The report offers a look at how the sisters shape the line’s distinctive mix of practical clothing, intricate construction and unexpected historical references.
The Fannings were finishing the collection at the label’s London studio in the days before the show. Deanna described the work in progress as “very clean, very graphic,” while noting that the designers’ idea of minimalism might not look minimal to others. She said recent seasons had gone in a different direction, exploring silhouette and transparency.
The interview also points to the visual language seen in the house’s fall/winter 2026 runway collection. ELLE describes a bomber jacket with triangular, modernist epaulets and central paneling, alongside a V-neck cardigan maxi dress with detachable oversized sleeves and a two-color hood. The examples combine recognizable garment forms with altered proportions and construction.
Kiko Kostadinov founded the London-based label as a menswear brand in 2016. The Fanning sisters joined in 2018 to develop womenswear, drawing on their own graduate collections. Deanna’s background is in knitwear, while Laura identifies silhouette as her specialty; both say textiles, color and accessories are central to how they communicate the brand’s design.
How the Sisters Shape the Line
The interview helps explain how the womenswear line has developed a following among artists and intellectuals, according to ELLE’s report. The sisters describe an audience willing to wear clothing that does not follow familiar expectations. The label’s appeal, as presented in the article, rests partly on combining a functional sensibility with shapes and references that can feel unfamiliar.
That balance matters to the collection’s identity: the clothes are designed to be worn, yet they can also unsettle a viewer’s first reading. Laura told ELLE that disorienting someone can challenge their perception. The aim is not simply to reproduce a historical period or a science-fiction look, but to layer references so a garment may suggest several worlds at once.
The sisters describe a basic womenswear combination as distinctive trousers, flat shoes and a textural knit. The formula is their characterization, not a fixed uniform or a claim about every customer. Footwear and accessories also carry weight in the label’s collaborative work, including projects with ASICS, cited in the report.
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From London Studio to Paris
Kostadinov established the label in 2016, initially focused on menswear. Two years later, the Fannings began leading its womenswear component. They are Australian twins and Central Saint Martins graduates; Deanna is married to Kostadinov. They told ELLE that they had tried working separately in their late teens but found that collaboration came more naturally.
The report connects their design interests to different parts of their upbringing. School uniforms in Australia helped shape their interest in footwear, Laura said, while memories of clothing and shoes sent by their Italian grandparents informed their appreciation of craftsmanship. These are the sisters’ accounts of personal influences, rather than a complete explanation of the label’s design history.
For the upcoming collection, they cited the work of Nanda Vigo, the visual artist whose ambient works used light to define space. The sisters said they wanted to reinterpret that idea on the body. Their stated pursuit of greater directness follows seasons in which they explored silhouette and transparency.
What the Preview Leaves Open
At the time of the interview, the sisters were still completing the collection. ELLE’s report offered their description and selected examples from earlier work, but did not provide a full account of the spring/summer 2027 lineup. The complete collection and its runway presentation were still to come at the October 5 show.
The article characterizes the womenswear line as having a cult following, but provides no audience figures, sales data or measure of the label’s reach. It also does not quantify the business contribution of footwear collaborations or establish how broadly customers adopt the designers’ suggested outfit formula. Those points remain unreported in the source material.
The October 5 Runway Show
The next public milestone is the label’s spring/summer 2027 presentation at Paris Fashion Week on October 5, 2026. The runway show will reveal how the designers translate their stated interest in directness, graphic forms and Nanda Vigo’s use of light into finished garments. The interview does not specify what the full collection will include beyond the direction the sisters described.
After the show, the collection’s complete designs and reception can be reported with reference to the runway presentation. Until then, the designers’ comments are a preview of their intentions, not a full account of what audiences will see.
Key Questions
What is the news about Kiko Kostadinov?
In an interview with ELLE before the label’s October 5 Paris show, Laura and Deanna Fanning described the planned direction of the spring/summer 2027 womenswear collection.
What did the designers say about the new collection?
Deanna Fanning said it looked “very clean, very graphic” while the sisters were finishing it in their London studio. She cautioned that their version of minimalism might not read as minimal to everyone.
Who designs Kiko Kostadinov womenswear?
Laura and Deanna Fanning have led the womenswear component since 2018. Kiko Kostadinov founded the label as a menswear brand in 2016.
What is distinctive about the womenswear line?
ELLE describes clothing that combines wearable forms with unusual silhouettes, intricate construction, utility and historical or science-fiction references. The sisters say their audience is open to garments that do not fit familiar expectations.
When will the spring/summer 2027 collection be shown?
The Fannings’ show was scheduled for October 5, 2026, at Paris Fashion Week. The interview was published ahead of the presentation.
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